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#1 Androo26

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 05:28 PM

TOYOTA STARLET EP91 5EFE + T

 

 

20150903_111802_zpss4gbflet.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 
Ok peoples  its about time I started a project diary on ye old starlet.
 
My starlet was aquired chrismas eve 2013, promptly driven home washed and fitted with the King RS-GT 17 inch wheels I have.
This car came fitted already with 30mm lowered King springs, KYB Excel G shocks and a set of 15 inch mags (not shown)
Also had clear side indicators too.
 
IMAG0921_zpsc5fe59d5.jpg
 
All soapy during cleaning
 
IMAG0919_zpsd5a23f11.jpg.
 
The intended goals I have for this car are as follows.
Turbocharged with160kw @ the wheels.
Neat little sleeper that handles well and goes like a rocket.
Must not be a pain in the ass (clutch) and be able to be a daily driver if needed. Good cold start, idle and reasonable fuel economy.
 
After much research about radiator conversions to starlets Ive settled on a Suzuki Swift GTI alloy item.
Ebay link http://www.ebay.com....=item4176c26238
 
This is to allow for much more engine bay room for the turbo
 
So it turned up today at the local post office.
 
IMAG0927_zpsbafc85ba.jpg
 
I was quite surprised at the quality of the welding (looks better in real life than the pic) and overall quality. Being a cheapy . ($80)
The hose inlets/ outlet are 28mm same as original hoses. The plan is to mount it using the standard radiator hoses .


Edited by Androo26, 04 September 2016 - 07:36 PM.


#2 bronald

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 08:19 PM

Let me know how that rad fits up :)

Wouldn't mind one of my EP82

 

best of luck with the turbo conversion :D



#3 starlet666

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 04:08 PM

bronald, i have one in my shed, postage might be a pain in the ass though to send to sydney from far north qld

 

its a civic one, with hoses and mounts to suit, pm me if you are interested



#4 Androo26

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 04:16 PM

Did a bit more today.... Making/ measuring mounts for radiator ect. Ill do this in quite detail as many people will want to change radiators at some point.

My appologies to anyone that is mechanically minded and finds the details boring... But I quite enjoy teaching and showing others my way of doing things. (Tech Stuff)

 

Ok first up the base of the radiator has a curved section for the lower mount. It measures in at 40mm in diameter.

 

 

So ... I found a bit of galvanised pipe i had laying about wich was bout 32mm in diameter and cut a section out if it with a cutoff wheel equiped grinder. (pipe is 70mm long)

 

 

 

Then using old radiator hose i measured that id need a pipe with the diameter of 46mm as a dolley to achieve my 40mm curve (including the thickness of the rubber. 3mm for each side)

 

 

Using a hammer I manipulated it to the correct shape and welded a tab onto it.

 

 

 

The next step was to measure how much clearance the stock radiator has . So with 2 rulers you can see what i have done to get that measurement.

 

 

Using spacers (bits of Masonite sheeting 5mm thickness) and a clamp I was able to work out how much I need to space my bracket down to get just a little more than stock clearance to the bonnet. (need 10mm spacers) Sitting the new radiator on the bracket and repeating the ruler measurements angain

 

 

The GTI radiator is a bit taller than the stock one so it was always going to sit lower down. Here it is.

 

 

The picture looks worse than it actually is. Its no way the lowest piont of the car.

Also measured up to make a bracket to fit the lower radiator support, wich has 2 6mm bolt holes very close to where i need them to be. All this and it lines up perfectly with the stock top hose.. hopefully I have time to get more done tomorrow.



#5 -Harry-

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 06:06 PM

Nice work mate. Great attention to detail.

 

Thats a suzuki swift replacement radiator btw. You can unbolt that mount off any swift. std swift fan and shroud will fit too. 


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"Using nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD, you wanna hit it, but your afraid of the consequences."
 


#6 Androo26

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 08:59 PM

That would be too easy Harry lol. thanks.



#7 Androo26

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 08:18 PM

Look what turned up today !!!

 

IMAG0955_zpsade350f2.jpg

 

I couldn't help myself and put the radiator to the side and fitted some bits.

 

IMAG0957_zps9f1a2613.jpg

 

IMAG0959_zps98624f7a.jpg

 

I can confirm that the Whiteline front strut brace just clears the EP91 fuel filter.

 

IMAG0960_zpsf5154752.jpg


Edited by Androo26, 10 January 2014 - 06:43 PM.


#8 Androo26

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 06:42 PM

I can also confirm that the stock air box will not fit. (forgot to get a pic)

 

Anyways... took it for a spin through some twisty roads near my place with the rear bar on the middle setting.

Roll control is good and feels all round tighter/ firmer/ sharper, except for the front now feels under sprung and soggy. ( of course it does.... you have no front sway bar dummy !!!)

 

Took it home again and set it up on the stiffest rear bar setting for another lap. You can really feel the difference here . Feels like there are heaps stiffer springs in the rear, but with less body roll than before. Makes the front feel like a joke. I think for now until I get a front bar on Ill leave it on the middle setting as its better suited for normal driving and sh*t roads (most of them).

Bit softer ride, and in a small light car you can really feel the difference.

 

I will do a detailed pic and write up later of the rear anti roll bar install as it could be a little tricky for some.

 

Ive also put the 15 inch wheels it came with back on too as the 17s turned it into a sh*t box to drive. Too rough and made it feel less powered too.

 

IMAG0971_zps7eceb9b1.jpg

 

IMAG0970_zps3d3e9060.jpg

 

It soooo needs more power. I hope I can keep it looking as stock as this and have 160kw @ the wheels.

 

On a side note, does anyone have experience with a stock front sway bar, weather it be a N/A starlet, paseo or GT that has upgraded to one of the whiteline ones 20 or 24mm

Care to share as to how different it feels , road manners ect.


Edited by Androo26, 01 February 2014 - 06:18 AM.


#9 Androo26

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 07:47 PM

Just found this pic on google . Looks like you can fit the bar at the front of struts or at the back like I have. Might be able to use the stock air box that way...hmmmm
 
100_1225.jpg
 
Ill go try it .

Yeah... Nah the bonnet doesn't close. had it right the first time.

Edited by Androo26, 10 January 2014 - 09:19 PM.


#10 Androo26

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 11:07 AM

Today's mission is to cure the unbalance of having no sway bar in the front. A trip to the local wreckers found a black EL54 Toyota Paseo wich happened to still have its front sway bar , links and bushes.

And to answer my own question from before the stock bar measures in at 20mm in diameter.

Half an hour later its out and on its way home with me for the price of $50.

 

Cleaned it up and a fresh coat and its ready to go.

 

OMG its a snake !!

 

Now its all installed ready to test drive. What a difference !!! The front and rear work well together with no feeling of bias toward either end. Ride quality is still good but a little firmer throughout the front.

 

I can highly recommend this setup to anyone who has a sway bar-less starlet to follow down this path. As now it handles like it should and still rides well.

Just have to do the anti lift kit now . Stay posted !!


Edited by Androo26, 24 January 2014 - 03:07 PM.


#11 Errday91

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 11:19 AM

Top work mate. Good write up too.

#12 Androo26

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 11:56 AM

Today I went down to Uni Filter at  west Gosford to place my order for a custom 2.5 inch air filter (because all you can seem to get off the shelves at any parts shop is a fully sick 3 inch pod bro) !!..... So I went via the the old pacific hyway.... One of the best driving twisty roads around. (google it)

 

Before I left I moved the rear bar to its stiffest setting as I knew i was going to be getting stuck into it.

 

And the grip level that it has is astounding (for a starlet)  it doesnt start to show its hand until you push it hard, sitting relativly flat and just does its thing.

 

Very happy with it. Does the extra castor that the anti lift kit offers make a difference... we will have to see.



#13 bronald

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 02:00 PM

Apparently the anti lift kit does wonders.

Old PAC is a smashing road :) my old home

#14 Androo26

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 11:31 AM

I got a bit more done on the radiator side of things today

 

before and after pics of the passenger side stock radiator mount removal

 

IMAG0993_zps66818a9a.jpg

 

 

Should have used an angle grinder intead of a air hack saw... might have got the cut a little straighter.


Edited by Androo26, 24 January 2014 - 03:08 PM.


#15 Androo26

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:35 AM

More progress on the radiator today . Top mounts done. Used 25mm wide 3mm thick flat bar . Bent the steel in a vice with a block of timber and a hammer. Marked out the holes .

 

So here is how it sits in the car mounted up.

 

 

 

Ive used the rubber mounts from a fuel filter holder (exactly the same ones as the starlet uses) Just drilled the existing holes for the top mounts just a little bigger, to fit them in.

 

 

As you can see there is plenty of room for intercooler pipes and turbo fitment.

 

 

 

And it uses the standard radiator hoses. I closed the bonnet and stuck my hand up from underneath to check the clerance of the radiator cap and was able to completely put my hand over it. FTW !!

 

 

Now just have to finish the bottom bracket. (Bracing) and get a thermo fan from a suzuki swift. Although I do have a charade one here wich is a good fit (with mods)


Edited by Androo26, 24 January 2014 - 03:14 PM.


#16 Kyle

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 12:03 PM

Good work there,

There are a few radiators around that have the pin mount on the

bottom which fits nice in to the stock mounts (would have saved you cutting it out).

 

Do you plan to bolt up a turbo to the 4efe ?



#17 Androo26

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 12:27 PM

Yes Kyle thats the plan. Turbo will be a hybrid that I havnt yet seen on a starlet ... Consisting of a R32 GTR T25 rear housing 0.48 mated to a GT2560 ball bearing core and compressor.

Since the gtr is 2.6l and has 2 turbos each turbo is working with 1.3l so should be perfect. The stock 2560 rear housing is a 0.64 wich is good on the current 1.6l its on at the moment ( my other car) (full 10 psi at 3440 rpm)

so that housing would be better suited to built 5e, bit laggy for the 4e id reckon.



#18 onthelowdown

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 02:00 PM

This thread is awesome!!



#19 Androo26

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 07:54 AM

Lower control arms have been removed cleaned and stripped of bushings and sleeves to accept new Whiteline Anti lift kit and super pro bushings.

 

 

For the front bushings (front lower ) its the 31mm bush  as there are 2 options for this 34 or 31.

The rear is as per the kit.

Removal of bushings-

- The front one simply burned out with an oxy torch.

- Rear one not so easy. oxy torched the rubber with help of a wire wheel. then heated the outer sleeve and held backing plate in vice and using a

punch and hammer to push the arm through the sleeve and out


Edited by Androo26, 24 January 2014 - 03:15 PM.


#20 Androo26

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 03:52 PM

Custom pod filter turned up in the post today. $58 dollars to my door. Neck/ pipe size is 2 1/2 inch with the foam dimensions 100mm x 100mm.

 

Top blokes at UNIFILTER sorted me out .

 

http://www.uniflow.com.au/

 






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