Here is a sneak peek of what I got upto tonight.
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Posted 17 January 2014 - 10:18 PM
Posted 18 January 2014 - 09:17 PM
What are the specs on that intercooler dude? It's exactly what i have been looking for!!!
Edited by onthelowdown, 18 January 2014 - 09:17 PM.
Posted 19 January 2014 - 07:12 AM
PWR Aero 2
Find it here http://www.pwr.com.a...-2-intercoolers
Part No: PWI5427 – 400x198x68 2.5″ Outlets
If they made one that was (core size) 400 x 250 x 68 that would be ideal but it seems they don't advertise custom builds ??
Could always email them i suppose .
For any custom alloy stuff you could try this guy.... Flawless welding, best I have ever seen. http://www.shaunscustomalloy.com.au/
Edited by Androo26, 19 January 2014 - 07:51 AM.
Posted 20 January 2014 - 12:30 AM
should be fun for a few 100kms...if its a stock n/a engine
Posted 20 January 2014 - 10:19 PM
I emailed PWR regarding the HP rating of this intercooler and his words were
"Our tube and fin core measuring 400x200x68mm should be efficient to around 350hp....."
So there you go !!
In the mean time im wating for more stuff to turn up till I can go any further....
Edited by Androo26, 20 January 2014 - 10:21 PM.
Posted 21 January 2014 - 10:42 PM
I got a bit more done today on the radiator.
After going to 6 differnt wreckers today looking for that elusive straight fit swift cooling fan. No barstard had one. Except one guy " Yeah $120 up from sydney mate"
I dont think so pal, Brand new radiator to my door 80 dollars, Add 20 year old secondhand fan for 120 . Naah !!! you can keep that one.
So i thought bugger it ill adapt the fan I have laying around here. Its from an injectected 1.3L G102 series Daihatsu Charade. Wreckers usually have a few at least.
The width of this fan is a perfect fit but the bottom needed a small bracket to adapt to the radiators mounting point.
On the top the 2 tabs were cut off and 2 small holes drilled (4mm). These attached with nylock nuts and washers on both sides.
So the finished product looked good but a bit old and rusty looking.
So I dissasembled the fan from the shrouding and sandblasted it and gave it a lick of paint. Now it looks like new, very happy with the outcome and a better option than the s#$t universal fit type.
Edited by Androo26, 24 January 2014 - 03:04 PM.
Posted 21 January 2014 - 10:48 PM
And these turned up today also.
1 x 2 1/2" 90 degree bend $25
1 x 2 1/2" to 2" 90 degree bend $25
1 x 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" straight adaptor. $11
Pretty well priced from an oline shop called http://www.point-blank.com.au/
Edited by Androo26, 24 January 2014 - 03:01 PM.
Posted 21 January 2014 - 11:26 PM
Posted 23 January 2014 - 01:31 PM
More things turned up today ... Finally woohooo!
Front lower control arm bushes. 31mm
Note people there are 2 different sizes 31mm and 34 mm this is the part # for 31mm bushes.
Posted 24 January 2014 - 09:46 AM
This 0.48 GTR rear housing Im gunna use needed to be ported out to suit the larger style T25 foot print. So here it is before and after.
Edited by Androo26, 01 February 2014 - 06:30 AM.
Posted 24 January 2014 - 03:00 PM
Have got the day off today so got quite a bit done so far.
intercooler pipe fun !
So basically this all starts out with stainless steel 90 and 45 degree bends and straight of course. (all 2 1/2") You can do this so many ways, but I am trying with this build to minimse any tight bends whatsoever . Bit of a jigsaw puzle but being carefull and not rushing can give a good result. here it is so far.
Im getting a little excited as things are really coming together now!
Posted 24 January 2014 - 03:34 PM
The dump pipe is somthing you see a lot of being custom made ect, ect. And more often than not they end up really tight and not the best flowing.
For a while now ive had an idea of making a sheet metal transition that is straight with very good flow straight out of the turbo so here is what I came up with.
Starts out as sheet metal 2mm mild steel.
Using an old gasket as the desired shape outcome. Ive had to make this in 3 pieces as you cant physically bend it in 1 piece . Using a vice and other bits of pipe as dolleys and a cut off wheel I came up with these bits to get the right shape.
Tig welding them inside and out
Fits just inside the gasket perfectly.
Next up I welded it onto another plate so the shape would remain the same at one end and.....
Using this big machined steel cone shape I pressed it into the open end and tapping it with a hammer also till it measured 3 inches and fully round.
Then I cut the bottom plate off and cleaned it up and now have a super smooth dump to 3 inch transition. Awesome !!
Edited by Androo26, 24 January 2014 - 03:36 PM.
Posted 24 January 2014 - 03:40 PM
Posted 25 January 2014 - 05:19 PM
Ok peoples I got me a Tig welder ( Ive really had it for a week) 150amp. For at home, really handy when you need to tack pipes together and make little brackets ect. Was pretty cheap too $168.41
Then you have to buy a Argon gas bottle from Gasweld and a pressure regulator. All up 468 dollars 41 cents.
Tig welder was brought here http://www.ebay.com....=item4177ae7352
Old ironing board comes in handy to as a fold away bench top !
Edited by Androo26, 25 January 2014 - 05:23 PM.
Posted 28 January 2014 - 03:55 PM
Bit of an update.
The anti lift kit has been installed and also the final touches on the radiator install
The final support has been welded on and the rubber glued down.
Radiator filled and bled of air also used the original starlet radiator fan plug, soldered it to the charade fan wires and sealed with heat shrink. Even the wire colours match up blue and black.
Radiator works well and keeps it at operating temp nicley. Fan works well too.
Well to be honest I was expecting big things from the anti lift kit ( hasnt been wheel aligned to suit) guess ill wait till that is done before i go pushing it hard into some corners.
Posted 28 January 2014 - 04:02 PM
As promised ill do a write up on the rear Whiteline Anti Roll Bar.
So the first thing to do is jack up the car and remove the wheels.
Next up I let the car back down, sitting the rear beam axle on my drive on ramps so the car is in the sprung position it would be as if it had wheels on it. Also giving me access to the wheel arches.
Bolting the bar on with the U brackets and backing plates provided.
I added the sway bar support rods to the bar to see where they might then need to locate on the chasis. I tried to keep the Support rods as verticle as possible using the middle adjustment hole on the bar.
I could see pretty much where each side needed to be drilled so I marked it with a paint pen (very usefull)
From there I used a center punch to make a small dent right in the middle of the hole so it drills right where I want it to.
When Drilling into sheet metal I like to use whats called a pilot drill ( just a small drill before using the larger one. as it tends not to wander like a larger drill can.
Then onto the larger drill.
Boltoing it into the rail. Completeing one side then do the other side.
Job is done .
Tips I have for doing this job are .
-Use a small battery drill (narrow) as there isnt to much room to try and get the hole straight. An air drill would be best with long drill bits.
-Pilot hole .
- Lubricate all the bushes with supplied grease.
-Double check every thing before drilling and also after driving the thing.
-Install the rods straight up and down if you can.
Edited by Androo26, 28 January 2014 - 04:25 PM.
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