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#1181 Androo26

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 11:00 AM

BC Coilover install EP91 Starlet Front

 

 Step #1   Undo and remove the 3 or 4 nuts holding the top of the strut to the body. ( My setup here is different to most as I have modified camber tops setup to dial in more Castor angle. )

 

20171104_084947_zps1merp8l9.jpg

 

Step #2  Jack up the front and remove the wheel.

 

20171104_085621_zps9pctlalx.jpg

 

Step #3  Locate and undo both bolts that connect the base of the strut to the wheel hub x2. 19mm socket and or spanner. Also the brake line retaining tab has a 14mm bolt to undo as well. ( On my setup I have whiteline camber bolts as the top bolt here.)

 

20171104_085811_zpspgx3oex3.jpg

 

Step #4 Pull the strut down and out the side. Get the new one and put it up into the trut tower and put the bolts on the top to hold it in place. ( here is the BC's next to my old Koni and Tein combination)

 

20171104_090528_zpswonu44v4.jpg

 

Step #5 As you can see from the above pic the overall length is longer on the ones just removed. The lower control arm needs to be lifted up in order to line up and install the bolts.

 

Instead of trying to wrestle with it I found lowering it down with a block of wood under the ball joint simple to line up for the bolts.

 

20171104_092132_zps3q0qrzzn.jpg

 

Step #6  Once the 2 19mm bolts are on and tight as well as the 14mm bolt you can put the wheel back on and drop it back down again.

 

20171104_092143_zpshesh7emq.jpg

 

Step #7  Tighten up the strut top bolts (12mm) and your good to go.

 

20171104_092153_zpswmhkxuxc.jpg

 

Take Note the strut top can go in the top one of 2 ways. One way will give you more castor angle so make sure they are put in the same on both sides. More castor angle is better !!!

 

Note how the bolts are not center to the strut adjuster . Having the Adjuster closer to the firewall will give more castor angle...... how much more than stock is any ones guess.

 

b6a8dcc4-c792-4a89-a526-e3c7858ec2f4_zps

 

Here is how the car sits with the factory set heights.

 

 

For me its just a little too low at the front as I noticed the tire contact the inner wheel well plastic lining a couple of times when test driving it.


Edited by Androo26, 04 November 2017 - 11:04 AM.


#1182 Androo26

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 11:16 AM

First drive with the BC's installed front and back. I had to do a bit of a by eye wheel alignment... to my surprise the steering wheel was straight and the car didnt pull to either side .. just straight.

 

I knew it was going to be stiffer but it wasnt as bad as I thought straight up. The first thing I notice was there was no spring binding sort of noises backing it out the driveway like the old setup.

 

Second thing was the steering was now so much lighter due to the now less castor angle.  So I tried a few softer settings with each adjustment getting softer. At the softest setting the front ride quality is not bad at all... in fact im quite surprised it was that good.  The front could and will be used as a daily but the back could probably go maybe 1 kg less in the spring rate to be deemed comfortable.

 

Anyhow im building this thing to go fast around a track not to be the plushest of rides.  For now Im rolling with it on the softest settings front and back and will get a proper wheel alignment done after I raise the front a little bit . Im afraid I wont clear the speed hump at work at the front gate with it like it is.



#1183 Androo26

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 10:00 AM

Ok Ive now had a proper wheel alignment done and have had the camber set to -2* with just a little bit of toe out.  I also raised the front so its at almost equal height to the back now.

 

And Ive just changed the gearbox oil too . First time since the gearbox rebuild.

 

It steers real nice now and ill get to have a crack on sunday at the hillclimb event ive entered.



#1184 trivial006

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 10:12 PM

Good to see you're keeping up the progress mate.

 

I switched from the tf035 to the td04 after a month or so - same as yourself, i could 'feel' that 4cm turbine really choking it up top. I'm getting full boost a touch after 3500rpm, like yourself. 

 

You may find that you can throw a bit more timing at it with the 6cm turbine. I found a few extra degrees past 4000rpm.



#1185 Androo26

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 02:54 PM

Yes I totally agree and have found upto 4* extra timing can be had also



#1186 Androo26

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 03:03 PM

Ok todays hillclimb

 

I experienced a fair amount of axle tramp or wheel hop wich ever you want to call it. When ever it started wheel spinning/ breaking traction.

 

Seeing as I started out on the softest damper settings I increased it by 5 clicks at a time to see if it might cure the problem.

 

Its hard to tell if it was making a specific difference to the problem as I was trying to drive smoother avoiding wheels spin..... We only got 3 sessions today as the was a big field of cars

but I did manage to cut 2 seconds off each session. 4 second improvement isnt too bad at all.

 

So Im thinking that perhaps I should get some Polyflex polyurethane Engine/ gearbox mounts or and engine torque damper.

 

Im sure there are heaps of you out there that have had axle tramp issues....... so spill the beans ... anyone tried either ?



#1187 Androo26

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 11:31 AM

In order to tackle this axle tramp issue Ive ordered a full set of Powerflex engine and gearbox mounts ( The yellow ones on Ebay)

 

In the meantime im doing some mods to an old spare gearbox to firewall mount I have until the others arrive from the UK about mid December. Stay posted.


Edited by Androo26, 15 November 2017 - 11:32 AM.


#1188 Androo26

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 09:13 AM

Here is the old mount. Now I tried a couple of ideas here. I got an offcut bit of silicone intercooler piping and cut it into pieces and jammed that in the hole but it still moved around heaps and there was the option of just using Sikaflex to fill the void... but I have cut some thin walled metal tube and squashed some in the vice to make fit ect ... This seems to make it pretty stiff.

 

Then filled the holes and remaining area and smoothed it over with Sikaflex. I cleaned it all first with brake cleaner and compressed air too.

 

 

 

Ill leave it for a few days to cure then install it.



#1189 dougmo

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 01:30 PM

good idea, i filled all of mine (i bought new genuine) aswell but they still move a bit

 

the tube should tighten it up


winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.4 /// haunted hills 59.1///eastern creek 1:35.4


#1190 Androo26

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Posted 19 November 2017 - 05:57 PM

I got round to fitting the newly reinforced mount today...... And im pleasantly surprised that you can hardly notice a difference when driving...... other than it just feels tighter , gear changes are crisper and its a smoother / tighter, transition to on /off accel / deccel.  Feels actually better IMO.

 

About the only time you really notice a difference is when turning the engine over and starting gives a bit of vibration... even at idle its good.

 

Happy with the result.  Ready to go chop some at MCM Sydney



#1191 Androo26

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Posted 20 November 2017 - 04:03 PM

And of course when I get home today ... the engine and gearbox bushes have arrived at my door..... a day after ive had it apart GGGRRRRRR!!!!!

 

Im going to leave it for now and see how it is at the track....... I may not even end up installing them.... oh well !!!

 

20171120_162305_zpsw9layyhx.jpg

 

Also too my disc brake rear end distribution block has arrived from Starlet Parts... Thanks matey.  I now have everything to do the job start to finish.

 

20171120_165404_zpsbwbceegy.jpg


Edited by Androo26, 20 November 2017 - 04:04 PM.


#1192 Androo26

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 04:47 AM

EP91 Starlet Rear Disc Brake Installation

 

 

Step #1  Jack the car up and put it on stands so you can gain access underneath.  You will need to take out a section of exhaust so you can get to the heat shields.

     

               The hand brake cables are behind these heat shields and so 1 of them will they need to be removed and the other can just be bent down a little.

 

7e62f63f-feb2-4871-97e5-b6fa417ee737_zps

 

Step #2 Use a battery drill and drill out the rivets holding on the shield circled (above pic). I used a 5mm drill bit.

 

Step #3 Undo the 10mm bolt retaining clips holding the handbrake cable to the floor and remove the cables from the hand brake junction piece... looks like this.

 

Lay the cables on the ground at this stage.

 

20171204_095058_zpsjwn1c1ks.jpg

 

Step #4 Remove the drum by taking off the center cap , split pin and nut.

 

20171204_100455_zpsfa0jqof1.jpg

 

Step #5 Strip down the drum brake assembly of all its parts including the hand brake cable..... Remembering to clamp off the flexi brake line.

 

20171205_181059_zpste7nuikc.jpg

 

Step #6 Undo the 4 14mm headed bolts that hold the backing plate on and take it off. You will be left with the axle stub.... Clean it !!!

 

20171205_181535_zpsl76xvgil.jpg

 

Step #7 Bolt up the disc backing plate. The 4 bolts are longer also on this one. ( Caliper on there only for looks at this stage . )

 

20171205_183047_zpsvo9fdsio.jpg

 

Step # 8

 

Lets assume by this stage you have your discs, and have greased up and installed the bearings. Install the discs.

 

20171206_173138_zps8irpzd2f.jpg

 

Step # 9

 

Fit up the caliper mounting bracket and install the pad springs and pads.

 

IMG_1304-1_zpss2cczqda.jpg

 

I went a bit overboard here and got Genuine Toyota pads, springs and pad backing plates just so it is all how it should be. Part number is for the springs only.

 

IMG_1294-1_zpstwdodtwm.jpg

 

Step # 10 Fit the caliper and attach all the handbrake cables and fluid lines ... It should look like this. Note I had to make up custom lines as I didn't buy a complete axle beam.

 

You can also finish up the hand brake cables by riveting the heat shields in place after the cables have been bolted back in place

 

20171225_173454_zpsq6ade8vp.jpg

 

20171225_173441_zpsd1vsj3cl.jpg

 

Step # 11  Bleed the brakes and test drive.  I like to re-bleed them again after driving it and check the wheel bearings again for play just to be certain.


Edited by Androo26, 26 December 2017 - 10:53 AM.


#1193 Androo26

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 01:36 PM

4 wheel disc brakes are go !!!!  Looks mad through those wheels.

 

 

I may look at getting the paseo 7/8 master cylinder to improve the pedal travel and feel.


Edited by Androo26, 29 December 2017 - 01:45 PM.


#1194 Androo26

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:15 AM



#1195 Androo26

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 12:40 PM

Instead of buying a new 7/8 Paseo master cyliner, its got the better of me and ive stripped down the one i have here.

 

Thankfully its in mint condition inside and the seals look to be in good working order.

 

 

Ive got it all back together now and am waiting on some more Motul RBF 600 brake fluid to turn up off Ebay then I can get round to fitting it.



#1196 dougmo

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 07:00 PM

any feedback on how it feels?

 

when is your next track day? 


winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.4 /// haunted hills 59.1///eastern creek 1:35.4


#1197 Androo26

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 02:16 PM

Ive been lazy Doug and its been super hot weather ... I havnt got it on there yet.



#1198 Androo26

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 05:32 PM

Righto.... this arvo I got off my arse and installed the 7/8 brake master cylinder and re-bled the whole system top to bottom with Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

 

Now I have the brake pedal Ive always wanted from this car and the stopping ability too. ( for a street car )   Note I still have in place the original starlet distribution block on the fire wall.

 

I got on the brakes pretty hard several times and it never locked the rears. The fronts a little bit but thats to be expected as they are doing most of the work.

 

A good solid pedal indeed.

 

Happy happy joy joy !!!!



#1199 dougmo

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 08:03 PM

yes the big master helps the pedal feel heaps, good to see no 

rear locking, hopefully  ill be having a tune on the weekend so can test mine out


winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.4 /// haunted hills 59.1///eastern creek 1:35.4





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